Wednesday, October 20, 2010

The Makuwa Comes to Village

It has been monumental past couple of weeks in PC training so lots to update on. Kicking it off was a visit to my site. My site is a Sangwali Secondary School (grades 8 – 12)  in a small village called Sangwali about 130km SW of Katima. It is rather remote and can be troublesome to travel to, but the village sits along a river and is right up against the a Mamili Nature Park. Getting a little stir crazy from spending the past 6 weeks in training, so I was couldn't wait to get out and explore more of Namibia.  The Thursday before leaving, my school principal Mr. Siloka made the journey down, giving the two of us a chance to get acquainted and exchange some questions. 8AM the next morning, I piled in with my supervisor and my other two Caprivi PC counterparts Lorna and Stephanie and the 1400km journey began. We were fortunate enough to be traveling by Ford Focus as opposed to the much slower and much crowded alternative, combi (16 passenger vans most commonly used as transport across Namibia). Several pit stops were made along the way including the half Wild Foods half Target store known as Super SPAR and acts as the Mecca for all PCVs in Namibia.

As we crept further north  things began to looking like Africa. Soon all the big commercial farms were gone and replaced with clusters of mud hut communities called homesteads. Goats and cattle became ever present road hazards and women carrying buckets and baskets on their heads lined the roads.

We neared the Caprivi Strip just as evening began and two things began to enter my mind. A bit of panic for we had been strongly warned of traveling at night due to the dangers of wildlife crossing the road. Secondly a bit of excitement... well because of the wildlife too. This was elephant country and sitings are common.  Fortunately we did get my wish and came across two elephants on the side of the road. But unfortunately being almost dark and speeding to get through the Strip didn't get the greatest of viewings, but they were impressive and way more intense in the wild.

We got into Katima just after dark, and since none of our principals live in the villages in which they work, the plan was to spend the weekend here. We met up a couple PCVs Kaitlin and Emily living there, who were kind enough to house us three PCTs and act as our tour guide for the weekend. On Saturday, Emily took us around to most of Katima's highlights. First off the crafts market where we dined on the local dish of spinach, fish, and porridge (a white tasteless paste made from corn) and in true Namibia fashion using our hands. For dessert I spoiled myself with some soft served ice cream the first I've spotted in Namibia.

On Sunday I got a ride into Sangwali with my principal. The 130km was a long one with only half the road in being tar and the other half being gravel road. We got into the village just before sunset  and it was just the site I had pictured when I first signed up for the Peace Corps.  Grass huts with stick fences and papaya trees, herds of cattle roaming freely, and children everywhere yelling “Makuwa!” which is Silozi for “white person”. My first evening had just enough time to drop all my stuff at the homestead I’d be staying at, meet my host dad Cebens, and walk down to the river to see the most beautiful sunset I'd seen to date in Africa.

The next morning I got to work observing Namibian classrooms and meeting my future learners and coworkers. I was put on the spot at the morning assembly, and asked to give a speech introducing myself and give some words of encouragement. I slowly and loudly announced who I was, and where I come from (let me tell you it's quite difficult explaining that, yes, there is a “New” Mexico and it is in America to a Namibian), and give the best pep talk I could, but at the end of it all the 300+ just laughed! It wasn't because they were being rude, it was because they had no idea what I just said. Unlike in the city where I was coming from, village learners rarely use English outside of school. So I gave it another go. This time almost painfully slow, and I think I got the message across.

After school went across the yard to take a look at the permanent house I will be moving into beginning in December. At let me say it is the pimpest hut I have ever seen! Grass roof, 2 room – L shaped layout, windows, grass carport, and reed shower out back with a flushing toilet! Something I definitely won't mind calling home for the next 2 years.


Back at the homestead, got my first taste of what it is like to live without electricity or running water. Even had a startling late night encounter with a bat which managed to fly into my hut and cause a ruckus. Induced a bit of culture shock, but I'd be a but disappointed if I had it any other way.

The next day it was time to say bye for now and return to Okahandja with a newly found appreciation of just how good I had it there.

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